Sega launched the Master System in an attempt to compete against the Famicom/NES, but couldn't do anything to counter its massive adoption in Japan and the United States. However, the console became very popular in Brazil, Europe, and other PAL regions. That means there are many Master Systems out there, and with more than 35 years on their shoulders, they likely need some repairs. Tito from the Macho Nacho Productions channel explains what to do if a Sega Master System doesn't turn on correctly...
When the Sega Master System began its adventure in Japan (October 1985), Nintendo launched its NES in the United States. Add to that the two years the Famicom had already been available in the Japanese market (July 1983), and there's no doubt that the Master System's future was in other regions. That's how it made its way to Europe, Australia, New Zealand, South Korea (recently we talked about the Samsung Gam*Boy), and Brazil, a market it dominated completely thanks to the license acquired by Tectoy.
Depending on the region and version, a Sega Master System today is more than 35 years old. Drops, humidity, temperature changes, stress on connectors, and even a power supply with incorrect values can cause damage. That said, Tito from the Macho Nacho Productions channel received a Master System as a donation, and with a quick test, confirmed it doesn't turn on.
Repairing a Sega Master System that doesn't turn on
Tito explains that the points to check inside the console are three: the power connector (which can end up with broken solder joints, or worse, PCB damage), the power switch itself, and the voltage regulator. In its standard configuration, the Master System uses a 9-volt supply, which is "stepped down" to 5 volts with the help of a classic 7805. If the regulator fails for any reason, the console will never receive the power it needs.
Indeed, after ruling out failures in the power connector and the switch, Tito confirmed that the console's original regulator gave up the ghost. In theory, replacing it is all the Master System needs to come back to life (it can be a 7805 or another compatible equivalent), but Tito didn't hesitate to go further. He first set about removing the electrolytic capacitors (they're just as old as the console), and then washed the PCB with an ultrasonic cleaner.
The rest of the details are essentially aesthetic. The casing still had one of its front protectors, which was very difficult to remove. For the more serious scratches, Tito used a combination of Novus and 303 protectant, restoring its appearance to a great extent. The final result is excellent, and that Master System will surely work for many more years.
